For A Guaranteed Start Every Time-Easy DIY Generator Maintenance

Generator maintenance

Basic generator maintenance

I want to show you some basic generator maintenance. Especially if it’s been in storage for quite a number of years. This generator here has been sitting for approximately four years with the same fuel in it. Fortunately the valve was in the off position and I had run it dry before I put it away.

Drain fuel

So basically at this point we need to prevent problems. What I’m going to do is drain out all the fuel from the tank.  I’m going to do that is by disconnecting the fuel line right off the carb. I’m just going to pry up the fuel line and I’m just going to drain the fuel tank in an old oil container. A lot of people ask me where should I dump this old fuel or oil that I have sometimes. Well I tell them you can bring it to your local landfill site on certain days and sometimes some local automotive shops will take it for you.

Drain and replace oil

Now the oil in the motor will not actually go bad but if you haven’t replaced it for quite a while before you put it away. it’s a good idea to replace it now. On this one here the plug is right down here. It’s actually pretty black. Now that the oil is done draining I’ll just reinstall the plug now. In most generators I put in se 5w30 motor oil. Now in this generator there’s no dipstick so you just fill it up right to the top. And now the fuels done draining so I can reconnect the fuel line and don’t forget the fuel clamp. Also now it’s a good time to replace the spark plug as well. This one was located right here.

Change spark plug

Now some spark plugs are really hard to reach and that’s why I’m using a universal joint here. This way you can bend it and reach in and on this one you have a Champion XC90 2YC. But if you use an NG  make sure you replace it with the proper one. I’m using a B KR V II and now when you tighten up the spark plug don’t over-tighten it. Just use common sense and now connect the spark plug boot back on. Another thing you should check on your generator is the air filter and on this one it’s nice and clean. I’m just going to put it back on now.

Add fuel

Add fuel to the generator. I like to add in some fuel stabilizer. Just make sure to read the instructions and I’m putting a second dose now. I’m not going to fill it right up but I like to have enough in there in case I need to use it and I always use the premium fuel with no ethanol in it. Here in Canada you can get premium fuel with no ethanol at Shell or Canadian Tire gas stations.

Start generator

Now that’s about all the maintenance I can think about doing to this generator. I’m going to make sure the fuel valve is in the on position. I’m going to take the generator outside and I’m going to try it out. Hopefully it’s going to start. I did run a dry previously so the carburetor should be nice and clean. If it doesn’t start I will have to take apart the carburetor so what you saw me do there is turn the fuel valve off so that I would run the carburetor dry of fuel. If you run it dry like that when you go to reuse your generator it’s going to start because there will be no fuel left in there to go bad and by the way guys that was the actual first start to get this thing going after being in storage for quite a few years.

Test with a tool

It just goes to show the benefits of running your equipment dry before you put it away. Also another thing too is when you try out your generator like I just did, it’s good to plug something in like a tool or something to make sure that it’s actually producing electricity and I also like to leave a tag on my generator with the date that I serviced it.

It’s that easy to do basic maintenance to your generator like I just showed you because if the power goes out you want this thing to start for you. The biggest complaint that I hear from people is that the power went off, I went to start my generator and I couldn’t get it going and we were two, three hours or maybe two, three days without power. I always tell people do some basic generator maintenance like I showed in the video and you should avoid these problems in the future. thanks for watching guys. Make sure to subscribe.

Honda Generator Carburetor Cleaning

Servicing a honda generator carburetor

Cleaning a Generator Carburetor

Generator carburetor cleaning. Today we’re working on a Honda generator EU 2000 I. We’re going to show you how to clean the carb and drain the fuel system. Today’s tools are going to need a flathead screwdriver, a pair of pliers, a small flat-head screwdriver, a eight millimeter socket with ratchet and a pair of fuel line clamps. Now before you perform any repairs on the fuel system on top of the fuel cap it has an off valve. Turn that valve off to prevent any spillage coming out of the cap. Make sure your machine is in the off position.

Stripping down

Take your flat-head screwdriver and remove the access panel on the side of the generator. You’ll need to remove the screw on the front of the air filter cover. Remove the cover, remove the filter and the lower filter. Inside the air filter cover there is a eight millimeter screw. You need to remove that and also two eight millimeter screws that holds the air filter housing and carburetor to the engine. While removing the air filter housing there is a small black breather hose that runs from the crankcase up to the air cleaner. You’ll need to remove that before you can remove the air cleaner. Then this will remove.

Now once you got to this point you’re going to have to remove the fuel line that comes from the fuel pump to the carburetor. Use your fuel line pliers and you want to clamp off the fuel line. Then you want to remove the small clamp that’s on the fuel line that holds it to the carburetor. Now you need to keep a red rag handy for this. Once you pull out the fuelline you are going to leave some fuel. Remove your air filter gasket, check for any damages. If you suggest it has a rip or see any damages to the air to the gasket we recommend replacing. Now before we move in the carburetor you’re going to need to drain the fuel bowl.

Drain the carburetor

For that you need a drain pan and your small flat-head screwdriver. In the bottom of the carburetor there’s a small flat head screw that comes out of the bottom allows you to properly drain. At the bottom of the generator there’s a hose that runs right out the bottom so we can drain right out the bottom of the machine. As you turn the screw out you’ll notice you have flute fuel flow at the bottom of the carb. Let that drain out. Now you can move the carb out a little farther. On top of the carb there’s electronic throttle control for your Eagle throttle. You’ll need to remove the white cover that’s on top and then you’ll need to remove the wires that are on top also.

Remove the carburetor

Now you’re able to remove the carburetor from the engine and remove the fuel lines from the housing. So once you have this off there’s a gasket on the back side between the carburetor and the engine. You can inspect that for any damage and replace if necessary. So what we recommend doing is taking off the 10 millimeter bolt at the bottom of the float bowl. Then you want to hold the carb over the top of a drain pan because once you do take the bolt off there still is going to be some fuel that’s left in the bowl. Take the bolt out and remove the float bowl.

Now with the float bowl off you want to inspect for any varnish or any type of dirt debris there might be at the bottom and clean it as necessary. With the carburetor off you want to remove the float pin and remove the float. Next, with the float you’ll notice that there’s a needle on a spring. That’s what controls the flow of fuel into the carb. It seals it to prevent more fuel or allow more fuel into the carb. You want inspect that for any damage or dirt or debris. Now with this off there is a gasket that seals the float bowl to the carburetor body. You want to remove that gasket and replace once you have it out.

Generator carburetor cleaning

This gasket right here is the most important. You want to replace every time you go clean the carburetor just due to the fact that it will warp once you take the float Bowl off and will not seal. Now you use a small screwdriver. Inside this main tube is your main jet so as the fuel flows in this this is what controls how much fuel goes into the engine. Alright now once you get the main jet out, main jet will look something like this, you want to inspect this for debris or varnish for your most your debris is going to going to end up once it comes through the carburetor and you get this one too you want to, each side of this you’re going to find little holes.

You want to make sure all those are clean, inpected for debris and varnish. Now when cleaning the carb make sure your straw is on the carb cleaner. Make sure safety glasses are on. You want to blow through it, go through it the other way. Inspect it to make sure you’ll have any more debris and follow with compressed air. Same thing with your main jet. Blow through it with carb cleaner, follow with compressed air. Same thing with your float bowl. Wash it with carb cleaner. Follow with compressed air to take out any dirt or debris. Now with the carburetor itself you want to push it through where that needle is and where your fuel flow comes in.

Flushing out

You push the carb clinger through that to flush out any dirt or debris. Same thing through where your main jack came through and then on the front and the back of the carb there’s air orifices. You want to also flush those out with carb cleaner and then also follow with compressed air and once your carb is completely clean now you’re ready to reassemble.


Alright during reassembly you’re going to want to note how this came out of the carb. You’re going to put that in first and then you’ll insert your main jet. You’re going to want to make sure that the flat head part which you took out with the screwdriver goes in last so that way you’re still able to screwdriver in to tighten it back down. I’ll tighten it back down with your flat-head screwdriver but don’t over torque it because you run the risk of ruining the carburetor or the main jet. Just a slight turn just to make sure it’s lightly seated. Then you want to make sure you reinsert your float ball gasket. Make sure it’s seated down in the groove of the carburetor.

Here is a link to Honda generator carburetor rebuild kits on Amazon

Now you want to make sure your float and then that needle is clean. I recommend replacing the needle and nut every time you clean it. Place it back on the carburetor. Install your flow pin. Now you want to reinstall your float Bowl. You want to make sure when you put the float Bowl back on you have your drain valve facing the front of the carb. That way when you go to put the carb back on or when you go to take it back off the drain valves in front and you are able to drain it. Then you want to replace the float bolt. On this bolt there is also a gasket. They will come with the float Bowl kit. Make sure you replace the gasket.

Reinstall the carb

Tighten the float ball nut back down with your ten millimeter wrench again. Don’t over torque just lightly see, to prevent damage to the carburetor. Now you want to make sure that you reinstall your gaskets in between the carb and the cylinder head. I recommend replacing these unless they’re not damaged. Now you reinstall the carb. You want to make sure you reconnect your wires for you electronic throttle control. Then you want to replace the gasket in between the carburetor and the air filter.

Fuel Lines

Now you’re going to reroute the the fuel lines that you took out for the drain. Now the drain hose it comes out the bottom. You just want to show just a little bit at the bottom of the housing. Now you want to reinstall your fuel lines, now install Your air filter cover.You want to make sure that you put your breather back on the cover on the little nipple that comes out the bottom. Check your air filters. Make sure they’re clean, free of dirt or debris and reinstall back into the housing. Now before you put the access panel back on I recommend turning on the fuel valve, check on your carburetor for any more leaks. Visually checking anything, make sure nothing’s leaking inside the cover before you put it on or start the machine.

I let it run for 10 or 15 seconds, let the engine warm-up. Now when you shut the machine down just verify that you don’t have any fuel coming out of the overflow. That shows that the carburetor is sealed and there’s no issues with the machine.

Honda Generator Oil Change

How to do a Honda generator oil change

Changing oil in Honda generator

Our Honda generator oil change. Thanks for joining us for this video. It’s a very exciting day. We get to change the oil in our generator. It’s so much fun mechanicking. It’s always a good thing to do. So we have our little Honda inverter generator which is an EU 3000 i. It’s the wheeled handy model. Super fun so working really good for us.

If you’ve been following our blog we’re doing an off-grid homestead and this has been our power bill for the last two and a half months and it’s going to be for a while until we get our solar system set up and then hopefully it’ll just be a backup system. Anyway so we’ve been running it for quite a while. Everything Is actually been going really well. It’s very fuel efficient but we need to service the generator and the only thing really to service on the whole entire thing is the oil. So we’re going to do a Honda generator Oil change today.

Honda generator manual

If you’ve read the manual or if you’ve looked at your manual or you own this one and you notice that there’s actually an oil access compartment here on the side and that allows you to get to both the fill neck and the dipstick where you check the oil and then on the bottom side there’s actually another plug or a port on the bottom where you can open the drain plug to drain the oil out. So I’ve been running the generator for a little while just to heat up the oil so it’s easier to change it out. It’s been cooling down also for a couple minutes so we don’t burn ourselves and we’re going to drain it out the bottom there.

We’ll put the fill plug back in. We’ll go ahead and add oil. For this we actually chose to get ten thirty genuine Honda oil just to keep our warranty intact since this is our lifeblood. We want to make sure that it lasts us a really long time. We pick this up at our local Honda generator dealer. So we’re going to use probably about eight ounces I believe. Don’t hold me to that it’s about eight ounces I think of oil for this particular model. So let’s get started changing the oil in our generator okay. Now the first thing that we did actually as I mentioned earlier was we ran the generator for just a little while that heats the oil up and makes a little easier to change.

The drain plug

As you can tell it’s snowy outside. So if we just try to change cold oil it’ll be very difficult to change but we didn’t just turn it off and change it all right away. We might end up burning ourselves. So we’ve let it cool down here for about 15 minutes or so. Now everything should be nice and cool to the touch except for hopefully the oil still nice and fluid. So we’re going to pull the drain plug which is on the bottom side here and to do that we actually need a 10 millimeter socket and I find that having an extension is going to work the best. We want to make sure it’s set to reverse and forgive me I’m not going to be able to get the camera underneath here.

But there’s a small drain plug right on the bottom of the oil compartment so we’re just going to loosen that and assuming we’re loosening, it very hard to see. There we go. So we’re going to loosen it first and then we’re going to move our little container underneath here so we don’t get any on the tailgate and then we’re going to pull it the rest of the way out. Now I’m just threading it out with my finger. Hopefully I can pull the bolt out so you can actually see what it looks like. It’s definitely a tight compartment down there but it’s big enough that you can get two fat fingers in there.

Drain the oil

Usually when you’re changing oil like this the drain plug just falls right into whatever you’re catching the oil in. Which is annoying though no one’s ever died from it I don’t think. Almost done threading the drain plug and there we go and as predicted the drain plug is now being swallowed up by the oil. So we’ll let all the oil drain out and we’re almost done. So I’m actually going to revise my previous statement that we’re going to put eight ounces of oil in there. It looks to me like it’s considerably more maybe even as much as a pint or 16 ounces. So well we’ll take a look at that when we get a chance to fill it up here.

I don’t have the manual handy so maybe in the comments below we can put the amount of oil that the generator actually takes and if you’re not sure just check your manual. It’ll tell you what you need to know. It’s always a good idea to have some paper towels handy because I don’t care what your changing oil and it’s always messy. So it’s good to have something you can just wipe your fingers off with. Now before I go any farther I actually need to pluck the drain plug out of there. Because it’s sitting in this little pool of oil and if I was more dexterous I wouldn’t let it fall in there in the first place.

Replace drain plug

I don’t know if you’re much of a fisherman if you’re watching this video but I have just gone drain plug fishing and I caught one nice good-looking drain plug there. Not a bad idea to kind of keep an eye on the oil to kind of see if you have any metal shavings or anything in there. I mean ideally with a brand new generator like this we wouldn’t have any of those problems but you know what, keep an eye on things but try to get like preventive maintenance. So there’s a little drain plug comes out of this particular generator.

Next I’m going to go ahead and try to put that drain plug back in without dropping it back in the bath of oil. In fact it’s not going to be possible. It’s just too small so I’m going to put my drop cloth underneath here to catch the oil that’s dripping and now I should be able to reach up in there and I probably could have put that on the socket with the extension. be my life a little bit easier but you know what why make things easy. Alright So now we’ll go ahead and tighten up our drain plug again and a lot of times these drain plugs are not super tight. They’re what I would call snug. So don’t over tighten this.

Don’t overtighten

You don’t want to risk stripping out the threads on it okay and then we’ll ratchet it tight. Now I’m just gonna go til it’s snug and then just a tweak farther just to make sure it’s nice and nice and firm in there. Very good so let’s work on adding oil. Now alright so to fill the oil we’re going to gently pull on this cover. Remove it and we’re going to open up the dipstick / fill hole and ideally we’re going to get the dipstick about half full. There so um I am very prepared here.

The funnel that we have is in storage and I want to get this job done because it’s overdue. So we’re going to go ahead and try the old get the oil in the small hole trick which is always fun. The best way to do that is probably to tip the generator just a little bit and if you look the hole kind of has a little bit of a spout to it anyway. AAlright so we filled it up until it’s just at the bottom of the threads here and the the fill hole so that should be just the right amount of oil there. We’ll go ahead and put the dipstick back in and of course try to clean up as much as you can around the fill hole. If you’re smart like me and you’re not using a funnel you’ll have a little bit.


But actually it’s pretty easy to fill that. It wasn’t tragic. It’s definitely kind of challenging because you have to tip the generator up. But you know what you got to do there so should be good go ahead and top this off. Good and dipstick is in nice and firm. If you can, try to keep all this oil stuff around here clean. Tends to build up and gets kind of gunky and that just traps heat. So anyway we’re now filled with oil there and we can go ahead and put our cap back on this oil cover. And the last thing here we’re going to put this small cap back on which is the the drain port on the bottom here. It’s kind of just a rubbery plug.

Alright it’s in there nice and firm and so we don’t cause a UH exxon-valdez here in our driveway we’ll move our oil. So everything looks like it’s all done there. Having these little wood blocks helps or something like that. Maybe some concrete blocks or a workbench or something would definitely be helpful if you have to do it in the field. Distant firewood like that. Alright so we’re all done. It probably took us about 10 minutes to do that oil change is pretty simple looks like we used about 16 ounces of oil so I was off on my first calculation.

Use Honda oil

Oh I tried to look up the manual here and now oh try to put the information in the description of this video so you have something reliable but if you’re watching the video and you’re not sure just look at your Honda user manual. It’ll tell you how much oil to use. So use Honda genuine oil. Oh it should be changed we’re supposed to do that I think now every hundred hours or so. They say every three months or 100 hours. That’s going to be a little more frequent for us because we run our generator quite a bit when we’re doing construction things.

So thanks for joining us for this video. That’s how you do your Honda generator oil change. If you’re new to our videos please follow us on our blog. it’s pure living for life com. We’re building an off-grid homestead here in the Pacific Northwest as you can tell it’s a snowy day and we’re going to be doing some timber framing or also working on some solar project stuff like that. so if that’s interesting to you please subscribe to our YouTube channel, follow us on our blog and don’t forget to follow us on Facebook and Instagram.

Here is a link to Honda generator oils on Amazon

Change Honda Generator Spark Plug

Detailing change of Honda generaor spark plug

How to Change a Honda Generator Spark Plug

Tools for the job

Change Honda generator spark plug. So you’re gonna need a 3/8 inch ratchet. This particular one has a very slim head. That’s the one I like but you certainly can use the normal router. Next tool, 14 millimeter spark plug socket. This is what the manufacturer recommends. I highly recommend getting the metric 14 millimeter size. This is a 3 inch regular extension. This fits into your spark plug socket. Phillips head screwdriver, flat head screwdriver. Gonna need a spark plug gapping set. You can get these at any auto parts store. Even Honda dealers do sell them. You’ll need that to gap your spark plug and then last but not least Honda spark plug.

So what are you gonna say. Why do I need the Honda? Watch the rest of this video and I explain it. It makes your life a little bit easier and you are guaranteed to get the right plug if you buy it from your dealer and all together that’s what you need is a pretty easy job. Watch the rest of the video when I’ll show you how I do it. Alright youtubers so one of my loyal viewers asked me if I could show you how to replace the spark plug on an EU 7000. So there aren’t a lot of videos on this because this generator is still pretty new.

When to replace the plug

But if you read the book you’re actually supposed to replace the spark plug, I think that the manual actually says whenever it needs it. But in my case I like to do the plugs every year and I might be a little bit old-school but I would recommend that you want to at least do it every two years. I’ve had a couple plugs over the years go bad and on something like a generator it’s well worth the 3 bucks to replace it before it ends up being a problem. So if your generator is brand new you don’t need to do it. But I think it’s important to know how to because you might need to do it at some point.

flat-head screwdriver I’m on the left hand side of the generator this is the left door and that’s if you’re facing the control panel it doesn’t really matter though you only have two doors so keep opening them until you see a spark plug so we’re gonna open this door and for purposes this video you don’t need to do this yourself Honda’s pretty clever this door has a tendency to want to close a little bit so if you actually lift this off it’ll actually come out and finagling it pops off so we’re gonna put this aside where it doesn’t get damaged or scratched.

The spark plug cover

In a previous video I showed you how to do the air cleaner but in this one we’re gonna learn all about the spark plug today let’s start with a Phillips head screwdriver easy enough and first let’s explain where the spark plug is so this is the spark plug cover right in this area and it’s identified with a very easy to see Phillips head screw so we’re gonna unscrew that just a few turns and this is what they call a captive screw so what happens is this screw never actually will fall out it holds the screw which is why they call it captive.

Now once it’s very loose don’t worry that it’s not gonna pop out you’re just gonna gently lift the cover off and so now at this point what we’re gonna do we need some close-up so you can really see how this works. So the spark plug boot as they call it is actually right here so when you’re at home don’t be so nervous because this area is pretty well lit because I’ve got some creative lighting going on but at home you might not be able to see it quite so well. I actually recommend doing it outside if you can.

14mm spark plug socket

Now all you need to do no tools I just have my hand with of course my gloves on and this little boot tab right here. It might not be the exact name for it but all you need to do is pull that off. So the easiest way is to just use your hands and grip it with your thumb and your forefinger and just pull that out and that’s it. So right now you can see that we’ve got the boot off and underneath in here for my fingers pointing hopefully you can see the top of the spark plug that’s right here.

Now what we’re gonna do. I like to tuck this out of the way a little bit here. Now what we need to do now we need a spark plug tool that’s gonna go in there and I’m gonna show you how that works. Bit of a tight clearance. You’ve got your spark plug in here and you’ve got a frame right here. So my recommendation is you’re gonna need a spark plug socket and in this case because this is a foreign machine or a Japanese machine it’s metric. But you can use other sizes but the official size is a 14 millimeter spark plug socket. This may not look exactly like yours does but 14 millimeter is the size you want.

Need an extension

So the next thing you’ve got to get because this by itself is going to be so far in you won’t be able to do it. You need an extension. I recommend a particular extension of this size. The reason is this is a three inch extension. So if you use a longer extension than these two so I’m gonna put these together. Therefore you’re looking for about six inches of length on this and the reason you need this is the next step you’ve got to do is insert this tool onto the spark plug and make sure it’s seated properly. But the real challenge is as you can see it’s a little bit tight in here.

if you get an extension that comes way out the problem is the angle. It’s gonna hit this frame and you’re actually going to damage your spark plug. So my recommendation is you want the extension inside the frame so the frame is actually here. The extension is in. See if I can zoom a little more hard to get from that angle but you’ll see it when I put the ratchet on it. So in my case I’m using a little bit of an old-school ratchet. This is just a regular ratchet even though it looks a little bit unusual.

Loosen spark plug

I like it for tight situations. So at this point now again I’m gonna push the boot out of the way a little bit. I’m gonna put this spark plug two lon so again the key is you don’t want any pressure on this ratchet. I can still put my finger up in the frame in the still room sometime. Zoom in in this a couple of different ways so that you can really get the angle of what’s going on here. So again I’ve got the ratchet on top of the spark plug boot and I can’t stress this enough. Because if you are putting pressure on that spark plug as you pull it out you absolutely can damage it.

Now the key is if your ratchet is a little bit Wiggly afterwards that’s okay as provided that you’re using the 14 millimeter socket has to be tight on there but you just need clearance for the ratchet. So I’m sorry if I’ve over explained that. But it’s really important. The next thing you’re gonna do is you’re gonna loosen your spark plug. Okay that’s out so in my recommendation I don’t use my ratchet to loosen the spark plug once it’s loose. I pull that right off and then I’m gonna actually twist this by hand and the reason again I do that is because if I’m doing it by hand I’m not going to damage this.

Unscrew plug

So I’m gonna slowly do this and I’m gonna unscrew it and you keep going until it really is quite loose and again if you using a spark plug socket once you’re done and you take the plug out it should come out and the plug should be on the NDA sockets. Let me zoom back out a little bit now and it actually looks pretty good. That’s your spark plug hole right there. So now that we’ve got a spark plug out we’re gonna get a replacement. We’re gonna take a look at it all right. So now we want to get our new spark plug ready and get it installed and it’s actually pretty easy. I’ll show you the steps.

So the first thing to talk about is the ends of these spark plugs. Now when you look at the ends you see these threads. In the old days used to spend a lot of time and effort putting anti-seize compound on these and I know that a lot of guys still do. By today’s standards in per NGK who is the manufacturer of the spark plug honda recommends you do not put anything on these threads. So you take the spark plug right out of the box and it is ready to go except for one thing all right.

Use feeler guage

So now we’ve got to gap this plug so let’s take our feeler gauge and we’re going to put it into the gap and we’re going to run it in. Now there should be a little bit of resistance here and that’s what you’re looking for. Just a small amount of resistance. It shouldn’t be very loose. It shouldn’t be so tight that you can’t get it in. My recommendation is if this is not the case I don’t recommend bending these in your own unless you’re pretty experienced. So my recommendation again. I said it earlier. Buy this plug at a Honda dealer ask for the Honda branded plug.

It won’t actually have the Honda name on the plug. It’ll still say MGK but it’ll come in a Honda box so when you look at it this is going to be the end of it it’s gonna say BP r6 is so this is the correct plug per the manufacturer’s instructions for the EU 7000 is. So again if you’ve learned one thing from this part make your life easy pay two dollars extra and go to the Honda dealer or order it online. Get the Honda part number of the plug and you’ll get the plug ready to go. Typically it’s gapped. But I’m still telling you it’s worth double-checking it with that feeler gauge to make certain.

Retighten the plug

Or if you having a problem ask your dealer to check the gap and they typically will for you. You can still do the job yourself and save a lot of money. Alright so once your plug is gapped, and again you don’t need anything on the end of it, all we need to do is take our sparkplug tool reattach the plug in it and now our goal is to get the spark plug in that hole. So very gently you are going to put that tool right back in and I like to wiggle a little bit and once you feel that that spark plug is there you can very gently. I absolutely recommend you turn that tool by hand.

You’re gonna spin it until the spark plug finally tightens up and again I do not recommend using the ratchet until the spark plug finally reaches the bottom like it did right there. So I can’t turn it any more by hand and if you want to check it to be sure you can even loosen it just make sure it feels like it’s threading in smoothly. Now I’m gonna retighten it back up to where it was and now all we need is to use our ratchet.

Replace connector

So take our ratchet. Put it on there and I have to reverse the direction and this is again just a average ratchet and when you tighten it this is where things have a little need to be tight but not so firm that they’re gonna tear the end of it off. So I just recommend putting it on fairly tight. Typically they recommend that after that spark plug touches the bottom that the ratchet moves a quarter of a turn. What a quarter of a turn means it goes from here a quarter of the way across. Consider a full circle so you go into fourth of the way and it can vary by manufacturer

So now that that’s done and it’s tightened up we’re gonna remove our ratchet and our spark plug tool. Now that our spark plug is installed and it’s tight we need to put this boot back on. it’s very easy. You just slide it on to the spark plug and you press it until it goes in all the way and a lot of times you’ll feel a little bit of a click from the connector. So I’m going to slide it on.

Replace cover

I don’t know if you could hear that but when I push this boot all the way in it made a little click. So now we’ve got the plug back in it’s tight. All we’ve got to do is, zoom out a little, is to put this cover back on. So this just very easily snaps on. Now that that covers on we’re just going to tighten it up. We’ll screw this in until it’s tight. So what this cover it doesn’t stay 100%. Like it’s pretty tight but if you pull in the edge you’ll see there’s a little bit of play. And that’s totally normal.

Now the good news is at this point we’re done. So we’re gonna turn our key to on. You’re gonna see some control lights light up and then once they go out you ready to go. Push the engine start. Make sure your eco throttle is on the off position that means the generators going to fire a full speed. Everything good. This concludes the spark plug change

Click here for Honda generator spark plugs on Amazon

BERG System – Single Feed, Model# HND1.2-000iS

BERG system

IPI Industries Breeze Extended Run Generator System

Video Tutorial on how to set up the BERG I Extended Run Generator System from IPI Industries Midwest

BERG System

No more refueling your generator in the middle of the night! Keep your inverter generator running for up to 72 hours with the BERG System by joining your generator to the external fuel tank and extending the continuous run time. The vacuum draw technology enables the fuel to flow seamlessly from the BERG System to the generator, thus allowing you to set it, start it and forget it. Not for sale in California. Compatible With: Honda generator, Fuel Type: Gasoline, Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 21 1/2 x 13 1/4 x 10, UL Listed: No, Capacity (gal.): 6, Compatible With Item Number (s): 167201, 100328, 16672, 16673, and 100329, Includes: Aircraft aluminum, Material Type: Polyethylene, Common Usage: Extended run fuel system, Extended Run: 72 hours. Here is a link to the BERG system on

BERGsystem reviews

Here are somr verified Amazon customer reviews for the BERG system

Review 1

4.0 out of 5 starsThis is wonderful for extended run times March 7, 2018 Verified Purchase This is wonderful for extended run times. Issues in countered I found have to do with the EPA for venting the gas can and the fitting. If you leave the lid tight on it then and its in the back end of your pickup it’ll balloon up. So I don’t tighten the lid all the way down. Also after more than a year in use now the Parker DM quick-coupler is sticking and difficult to uncouple and recouple. I figured I’d just purchase a new female quick-couple and replace it. After going to Parker’s website I discovered that the hose barb female quick couple end that is on this unit isn’t even on their website. Perhaps it’s only available to this manufacturer of the gas tanks. I can however get a quick couple, thread a hose barb into it and use that for replacement, but I want the original. I suppose IPI could sell me a complete replacement hose with the ends in it for my unit that isn’t very old. I’m in a love hate relationship with Parker fittings. I love the size and how they function. I hate their low durability and high cost. 7 people found this helpful

Review 2

Amazon Customer 5.0 out of 5 starsJust what I was looking for. November 9, 2017 Verified Purchase I read all of the reviews prior to purchasing this tank along with the response from the company on the bad reviews. Here is my experience: First, this tank looks like it was made specifically for the Honda 2000 series of generator. I had no trouble with the threads mating up or any part of the installation. Second, the first night we used it the temperature dropped to 17degrees and I had no gas line freeze up. I have learned to run nothing in my small engines except 90+ octane fuel and to avoid gasoline with any ethanol. Third, it holds a little over 6 gallons of fuel so running my generator all night was no issue. Yes, the tank does swell but it did not leak anywhere. I did bleed it whenever I added fuel but the swelling is part of the design as it is now illegal to vent fuel tanks directly into the atmosphere, same as on my car. 7 people found this helpful

Review 3

barry l renno 5.0 out of 5 starsThis product is a great thing, as i was refilling gen January 2, 2015 Verified Purchase I camp the forest in Fla. part of each year,where i run my Honda/generater many hrs.This product is a great thing,as i was refilling gen. once a day with fuel.Now since i purchased this wonderful tank,i can run my gen for 5-6 days b4 refillin.This product may cost abit more than i wouldhave expected, but its well worth the one time/cost,as it will last a lifex for me.Its very well built,very sturdy. 13 people found this helpful

Review 4

R.Vining 5.0 out of 5 starsWorks as advertised. Great buy January 27, 2018 Verified Purchase Got and used this on our last camping trip. We have to run the generator all night due to family member medical issues and it prevented us from having to loose power mid night and have to get up and deal with it. Also used it again recently when we had a house full to power a trailer with power, saving cost on propane. Works as advertised. 3 people found this helpful

Review 5

Samuel D. Self 5.0 out of 5 starsVERY useful and works well November 22, 2013 Verified Purchase I have a Honda EU2000i generator that this tank is connected to. About 6 months after I got the tank I had to use it. We had a tornado near my house and tons of trees were ripped up. We were without power for 3 or 4 days. I ran a few lights and our refrigerator on the generator and it ran non-stop the whole time. Only had to put gas in the tank because it was low. 07/21/2015 update: I originally bought this in February of 2013. For the first year it was in my garage, with my generator, and I used it a couple times when power went out. Worked very well. Now I have it mounted on my Cricket Trailer to not only extend the use of the generator (which is also mounted on the trailer) but also serve as spare fuel for my van when towing the trailer. It’s been outdoors now for over a year and is holding up perfectly. I do have it covered, protected from the sun, with a canvas cover. 20 people found this helpful

Review 6

Amazon Customer 5.0 out of 5 starsMust have during hurricane season! November 29, 2018 Verified Purchase I bought this for my sister as a birthday present, and then helped her test it before hurricane season. It works great!! It was super easy to set up, and she hasn’t had a single issue out of it. If you are going to have a small Honda generator, you really should have more run time than the small factory fuel tank offers. One person found this helpful

Review 7

LBeck 5.0 out of 5 starsExtra Run Time – A Big Plus July 22, 2018 Verified Purchase I bought a Honda EU2000i generator and the Breeze Extended Run after our “Sandy” experience in New Jersey. Haven’t had to use for several years but today the electricity went out for over 12 hours. Everything worked great and was able to run the refrigerator, WI-fi, internet phone, television, computers and charge my cell phone, . Oven is gas so no problem there. Would have been better if I had read the instructions first, but that goes against my nature. One person found this helpful